San Pedro de Atacama + Santiago 23-31 Jan

So San Pedro de Atacama is close to the driest desert in the world. Not a place to arrive with no cash of any kind and a bank card that's playing silly buggers. 

Managed to make it to my excellent hostel, recommended by two Chilean guys I'd met after the Bolivian jungle tour in Rurrenabaque. Easy to remember - The House of the Rising Sun!!.

So after talking to a guy who made it all sound easy (yes, my male vanity came into play), I hired a bike and set off to have a look around. Armed with 600ml of water, I set out for a 2-3 hour trip. The first place I went was called the tambo de catarpe and it was utterly amazing. Had to take the opportunity to do some yoga :)

So I then set off to the dunes near the valle de la luna, the other side of a tunnel, hoping to then be able to return the next day to do some sand boarding. The terrain looked roughly like what you can see here. Obviously these are not my photos as my camera was out of action.

After failing to see the dunes, I got to this passage way through to the next valley.

The valley of death... There was a sign saying that it was 10km to the next emergency phone but no discernible end to the trail. As I was turning to leave I saw a car speeding across the middle of nothingness in the distance, but thought.... no way. It may look ok now but what if I get lost etc.

So I tried to get back to the tunnel. And failed to find it. So I went back to the passageway above, and then tried again. And failed again. I'm big enough to admit I was shouting for help by this stage, but I didn't completely panic. The people below obviously weren't as inept as me.

So with about 20ml of water left, I took the only option left, went back to the passage way AGAIN and set off into the valley of death. Sweet...

Long story short, I made it to the highway which aforementioned highway and got to the top of the first very long hill expecting to see San Pedro in the next valley. It wasn't. So 5 hours into the ride and a bit tired to say the least, I flagged down a vehicle to ask how far was left and it was a small truck with a dog on the open back. They told me it was far and offered me a lift I vey gratefully accepted.

Needless to say, I took a day off the next day. Then went to Santiago to see Viviana who I'd met in Mexico City in October, 2010!!! First, I spent a day chilling in the centre while Viviana was at work. The plaza de armas was really nice...

And then it was off to the smaller houses and quiet streets of Providencia.

Was great to spend time cycling around her neighbourhood and hanging out with her lovely friends. I did a nice little outing to the Fine arts museum (bellas artes) but it was closed, so all in all it was a really untouristy week.

So it was then time to say a huge thank you to Viviana and head to Valparaíso, to see them for the first time since Christmas 2010 in Oaxaca.

Lots of love to you all,

Steve

xxx

Uyuni and the lagunas 18 Jan - 23 Jan

So, after the thrills and spills of the jungle tours, following the advice of my lovely friends from Cuzco, I just bought my bus ticket down to Uyuni.Bus ride was a picnic compared to the "road of death experience", but was pretty bumpy for the last few hours as the road didn't have tarmac. Expected to be swamped by people selling me tours, but in fact, I kind of had to run after a woman who was walking off!! Didn't quite get the rock bottom price but still a good deal. So a few hours later, it was off to the salt flats for day 1 of a 3 day tour ending in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.

Above is the ever-cheerful Alonso, a lovely guy from Costa Rica. We had plenty to talk about as his parents were from Peru. All seemed to bode well.

And as you can see above and below, the salt flats are quite stunning. More impressive than I'd expected. Walking on salt crystals in bare feet was a bit strange but really nice and cooling on the feet.

The obligatory group photo! With the three great Argentinian guys, Tonga (Gaston), Martin and José who I may be able to meet for a quick fruit juice in BA before I leave, then two lovely Brazilian girls, Natalia and Thaís and, of course, Alonso.

Well, every trick photo ever has been done at Uyuni. This almost worked. Surely get some credit for trying :)))

Muggins...

Sticking my camera out the window to take this may not have been the smartest idea, as it got gummed up with dust and refused to open 2 days later.

Day 2 started with the  valley of stones...

Was so peaceful just sitting and enjoying the silence in this place. Did a little ritual which Silviu had taught us when he lead the massage workshop in Cuzco. Start with the feet shoulder width apart, palms down towards the earth and let the energy flow into your hands from mother earth. Breathing in, pass your hands past your lower chakras to your stomach area and offer any remaining energy back to the mother. Arms and palms up to the sky let the energy flow in from father Sky and breathing in, pass your hands down your chakras from head to navel before blowing out the remaining energy/air and throwing your hands forward. Nice....

This is the mountains surrounding the "stinky" lagoon. It only really stinks if you put your foot in it as one rather unfortunate/not very bright? Scandinavian tourist did. Same guy chucked a cigarette butt a few hours later and had to ask him to pick it up. I mean look at the place. You just wouldn't, right?

When they say pictures can't capture the moment, they're sooo right. I was just in heaven looking at this. The greens, blues, greys and pinks and whites were just utterly stunning.

so much so I had to put in two pics....

Every place just had a spectacularly beautiful energy. I could have gone to each one with a tent to meditate for days on end. And we saw them all in a day.

Here's one that Alonso kindly sent me. Cheers mate :)

A privilege to be able to be in these places... Strangely I kept thinking about the Iberian lynx....

Can't remember the name of this stone, but it was an obligatory photo opportunity. Sure there were quite a few other 4x4s around and quite a few tourists, but if you just walked 50m away and looked in the other direction and let your busy thoughts go away, the feeling of these places was just soooo special.

This is the "Red" lagoon... the mountains are rich with different minerals, giving the water this beautiful hue.

Ok, maybe I should have left this out...

Our trusty 4x4.

Just outside the place we slept on day 2 was a stupidly amazing landscape which wasn't part of the tour. We just saw it when we went out to stretch our legs. When the sun dipped below the horizon, it got very cold, very quickly. Does happen in the Altiplano, all over 4000m.

Morning of day 3 was the geysers.

The one below was actually not a natural one, just a borehole used to try to get to water. After seeing another guy run through it, I decided to do the same. My hat must have gone a good 5m into the air... most amusing.

And then my camera refused to open, which is why the following pics are all thanks to Alonso. The green lagoon (not enough wind so not really green)...

and our group minus José who wasn't well...

A very desolate border crossing.

Like I was saying...

Right, there followed a hot, cramped bus ride to San Pedro de Atacama about which place I shall tell you more next time!!

Hope you're all well,

Lots of love

Steve

xxx