Saturday, 9 July 2011

Volunteering Project 2: Ibagué, Colombia Jan 30th - May 25

After my first effort in Mexico doing construction for two weeks, I was definitely ready to do more volunteer work and put down some roots. As I had really enjoyed Pereira, I looked hard but failed to find anything there. So, after spending a day or two there, I went ahead and confirmed the project in Ibagué. Had a look round the city on Saturday afternoon. Went to a bar that night and chatted to two rather lovley ladies. All seemed liveable so I set off for the volunteer house where I was met by William, Berenice's son. It was quite quiet for the first couple of weeks as there was builiding work being done, so took the chance to go up to the hot springs with Mikayla, another volunteer.


Was really great to see ordinary Colombians relaxing and enjoying themselves. And what a beautiful location.


This is a stop on the way up where we got talking to 3 young Colombians who were getting the aguardiente (sambuca) down at 8 in the morning!


After another little while on the bus, we got dropped off and hiked up 45 mins. The Combeima valley was stunning.


Two of the Colombians, Mikayla, me and Tom, an American who was learning Spanish.


It doesn´t look much but the huts were dry and just about warm enough.


And this is the view from said huts. At least it was on the Saturday when we arrived. It fills up on Sunday as most Colombians work 6 days a week and can only make it up on Sunday.


These three came up with the idea of midnight bathing and I have to say it was one of the most beautiful nights of my life. The stars were hidden for the first two hours, but around 2am we were treated to a whole sky of incredible stars. And we then went and made our campfire for the third time in the day and finished off the beans. Incredible.


Beautiful but seriously cold. The non-faint hearted do the cold shower in this, then go down to the hot pools. Having nearly died of hypthermia (well, I was bone-cold) after following Paola into waterfalls on the Pereira trip, I decided to just take it real easy.


Over the first two weeks, I spent a lot of time with these kids in the rough neighbourhood of San José. They were amazingly welcoming and open, although at times, with 35 of them, it did get a bit wearing.


Also did some English classes with adults. Mikayla here teaching the ever-enthusiastic Juan Carlos and Yamile, the manager of the San José operation. This was in a smaller building where they also did beauty classes to help the local ladies gain self-esteem and some useful skills for earning money later.


This is the main community hall which the kids use during the day, Monday to Friday. Those with school in the morning would come in the afternoon and vice versa. We did help with homework, English classes, presetations on important themes of health, nutrition etc.


The facilities were basic and you could smell marijuana being smoked by drug dealers less than 10m away, but the kids took it in their stride and just got on with being kids.


Maira and Tatyana. Great fun. Some of these kids home situations were what you might call complicated, but you'd never have known most of the time. Yamile and the two supervisors, Rosío and Yanaire do an amazing job giving these kids a childhood.


In no time at all, you lot managed to provide enough money to buy a digital projector which was used to do educational presentations, show films and picture displays. Some of the leftover money went towards educational materials in Colombia, some to pay the bills at my new Ecuadorian project and some will be spent in Peru. It really does go a long way out here. Thank you all again so much for you generosity.


 These were the morning kids at Manos Amigas, the Colombian name of the foundation that goes by www.letsgovolunteer.com when it has anything to do with volunteers. Some volunteers came to work at the Orchid Foundation or with sex workers. Both of these are external to Manos Amigas but part of the letsgovolunteer offering. Manos Amigas, the oldest part of the organisation, does after-before school club and lunch for 150 kids, all in the house where I lived. The kids are from a local slum right by the very unpredictable and dangerous Combeima river.


Shortly after arrival, I had arranged to take on the new Volunteer Intern position which meant looking after the other volunteers from arrival to departure, hoping that they would go away happy to recommend us to others. About three weeks in, a new bunch of volunteers arrived who I got on really well with. Going on weekend trips with them, Yamile and Juan Carlos was a joy. Here are Zelal, Yamile, Laetizia and Menka at the back, walking up to a cable car. Same road as we went along for the hot springs, but we walked a good two hours.


Was well worth it though. The views as we crossed the Combeima Canyon were stunning.



and a little scary if you're not great with heights like me.


After a great meal, we got shown around the farm, which was just amazing. Llamas...


Andrew (aus) and Menka (Can) almost came to blows over drinking penalties on a later trip to the hot springs (joke), but were great friends here. :)))


These were one of the many exotic fruits available. Anyone recognise what they are? I can't remember for the life of me. Look vaguely like passion fruit...


Work was hard, with 16-hour days making their appearance in my life for the first time since Manchester, but it was all worth it. And with the wonderful weekends rolling on, like this trip to Payandé, the 7 waterfalls, it was a very rich experience.


A picture of me, just in case you forgot what I looked like.


And I really can't remember what Juan Carlos was telling us, but it must have been to do with the enormous SEMEX cement works not far from where we were. Pollution control is not great and this place featured in my environment presentation. But the waterfalls were unsullied.


About a month and a half into the trip I finally got it together to do some volunteering at the secondary school where some of our kids went. The extremely helpful and positive Edith made the whole experience happen and I really got a lot out of it. Some of her groups had nearly 60 pupils in.


Another trip to the hot springs. With obligatory games. Me, Juan Carlos and Zelal.


Menka didn't feel up to the midnight swim, so we sent her Juan Carlos to try to scare her into coming. :)))


After that lot left, I didn't go anywhere for about a month. Just business as usual with Pilar, below who cooked all the lunches for the kids and volunteers. A truly wonderful woman whose 15-year old daughter, Kate, would often help out, before school. An impressive work ethic.


And Berenice, who loved nothing more than to be on the lunch floor with her 'enanos' (little people). Berenice cooked vegetarian food all the Mondays to Fridays for four months while I was there and generally looked after the volunteers incredibly well. Her house was truly a family house, open to all, from whatever country if they wanted to come and help with the kids. And her own two kids, William and Carolina, were very special young people. So warm and welcoming, you couldn't ask for more.



 The house I lived in for four months. Manos Amigas.


And the organisation wouldn't have been the same without several other dedicated Colombian members of staff. Here's Liliana who was doing her teacher training on Saturdays, writing essays, doing afternoons with us and marking the morning kids' books, amongst other things. Thanks Lili :)


None of it would have been possible without Carlos, whose energy and drive, really push the organisation to be all it can be. Him and his cousin, Maria del Pilar, set the foundation up and have given a huge amount to the kids of their home town. Much respect.


Another native of Ibagué, Jimena provided the kids with professional dance classes. And boy could they dance, some of them. An incredibly elegant dancer, a strict and effective teacher, Jimena also was a star in the programme.


David, not Colombian, but resident, was a great line manager. We got on really well and I like to think that we achieved quite a lot in the short time we worked together. David's commitment to the organisation was like that of all the other staff, unflagging and inspiring.


Huellas de amor was a more recent collaboration. They existed separately but Carlos really liked what they were doing and so work together had begun about  year before. I really enjoyed going there. The kids were fab and Rosío, the teacher, was just amazing.



You can't mae kids smile like that :) They only do it when they love and feel safe with the adults around them.


As time in Ibague drew to a close, a few more weekends away happened after a bit of a break. A new bunch of volunteers, filled with enthusiasm and energy to go exploring. Here on the way up to the Martinica.


Juan Carlos couldn't resist getting under the waterfall, so we all did. Really refreshing and not cold. A great start to our walk up to La Martinica.


And after all the uphill work, a great view of Ibagué.


And again...


And this chap, Edwin, was the star of my English classes in the morning, so I took this photo to put in the volunteers mnewsletter. I just pray that he will not fall victim to the many possible wrong turns his neighbourhood offers. A scholarship fund for the kids to benefit from when they leave was mooted and I really hope it becomes a reality.


Because these kids will occasionally need someone looking out for them. Yamile can do so much, but after 13 years of age, it gets harder.


Saying goodbye to these kids was hard. They meant and mean a great deal to me. But I felt it was time to move on. To Ecuador.


Spending 18 months in Latin America, I really wanted to spend a decent amount of time in an indigenous community. I had chosen the projet, www.skyecuador.org, in the Salasaca community near Ecuador. So, fighting back the tears, I said goodbye to all and set off on a two day journey to the beach in Ecuador for two weeks rest.

Wednesday, 6 July 2011

Plump statues and the coffee zone Jan 16th to Jan 29th

So the Buddha hostel really wasn't very spiritual as the drunk person who met me at 6 in the morning immediately proved. Still, it was a beautiful location and I met some really nice people. Medellin was pretty big, as it is the second city in Colombia. The Sunday morning when we went into town, there were literally hundreds of prostitutes around at midday time. But I didn't think you'd want to see pics of that, so here's a nicer part of the centre.


And Botero, his native city, lots of fat statues. This was a nice bit of town, but when we set off on foot to go towards the botanical gardens, we very quickly felt pretty uneasy. Like Bogota, I didn't really feel comfortable here and despite seeing some beautiful things, I couldn't hugely recommend the place.


More of the nice bits of town.


Some of the art we saw was really interesting too. This is by another Colombian artist from Medellin, who may not have Botero's international renown but at least he doesn't only draw, paint and sculpt fat people.


Argentina and Korea provided my extremely well-educated and amiable museum companions. Hope you're both well, Josh and Flor, wheerever you are! :)


Having opted for the safer transport route to the botanic garden, it proceded to be beautiful and drenched in wonderful sunshine. The university campus next door also looked very swish.


Nice one of Vikki here who was excellent company.


And turtles too. Yay....


and flutterbies....


and my new hat form Montería.


And the obligatory Pablo Escobar story. A guy started chatting away to me and Vikki while we were having coffee and he only claims to have been Pablo's bodyguard. Had a reverence for him I'd been told to expect in Medellin. Despite him being a cocaine mafia supremo of the ilk that darkened Colombia's international reputation for years. And ruined the lives of indigenous and other people (watch Bruce Parry's Amazon series) whose lands were used for manufacture etc etc



One of the nice things the slightly-more-party-than-I'd-expected people at the Buddha Hostel did, apart from cook some pretty amazing meals (the chef had worked at that very famous michelin-starred restaurant in Spain that only opened two months a year or something), .... was to recommend me the Sweet Home Hostel in Pereira. Pereira's first joy was the outdoor swimming pool above was gorgeous and I hope anyone who knows me well knows how I feel about such things....


This rather pretty and opulent house in downtown Pereira....


...and this rather rough looking higgledy-piggledy set of shacks that were actually right next to each other, summed up Pereira quite well.  Not really very touristy, to Juan Manuel's (owner of Sweet Home) extreme frustraton, the city is full of contrasts.


This downtown park had its fair share of folk fallen on hard times, beggars etc.


Whereas this rather posh and spiffy downtown square only a few blocks away, wouldn't look out of place in any major US city.


The other great thing about Pereira is that it is in the zona cafetera where coffee is best grown at around 1500m above sea level. And a friend of Juan Manuel's was only too happy to have company along for his trip out into this lovely countryside with his son.


This view from the first lookout point where we stopped is so beautiful, I could have bought a house there on the spot.



This was much further on after a fair amount more gruelling climbing. We did around 45 kilometres in the day.


But the last part was mostly going downhill, thank heavens. Right up until I was gazing around and failing to notice that the other two had stopped. Cue me going over the handlebars. Ooops.


Pereira also has access to the incredibly beautiful Ucumarí National Park and the more famous Los Nevados national park. Went up for the weekend with a beautiful Colombian girl called Paola with whom I had some great chats about the important things in life. Considering I'd hardly heard a word she said in the bar the previous night when we'd been introduced by Juan Manuel, we got on like a house on fire. She had to go back to work the next day, whilst I stayed to take on the mighty climb to the Laguna del Otún. As I was already at La Pastora, a place of surpassing tranquility, no electricity and nearby freezing waterfalls,...



it was just 6 hours and 17 kilometres.


easy...


but well worth the 5 and a half hour climb... (I had no tent or stuff, so it was easyish going.)


The local tapirs are known to eat any long-legged badgers that stray onto their territory.


Also, as you get up high, the fauna changes to the paramo, or mountain plateau/moor. And you get to see the frailejones, which look like cactuses on a pillar.


This was my one hour stay at the Laguna. Very tired and out of water but full of lovely food made by the caretaker of el rancho.

Just next to hear I collected sand and rocks to use as a Bear Gryll's style water filter.


And on the way back I may have had my first glimpse of the Andean condor. I also got to nearly die, have a heart attack and break both ankles as it was dark for the last hour of the descent and pitch black for the last 20 minutes. Good job I didn't take the torch I had just managed to fix just before I left. Ahem...


 A truly amazing 8 days in Pereira. Huge thanks to Juan Manual at Sweet Home for being a great guy and a great host. If you're in Colombia, stay there.... http://www.sweethomehostel.com/


Beach, bubbles, monuments and monkeys Jan 5th - 15th

So this was the Caribbean, and it was gorgeous. Very, very busy, but lovely. Half of Buenos Aires was on holiday looking for a decent beach. I met a couple of lovley Brits on the bus up and ended up hanging out with them for the next 4-5 days. Vikki wanted to do some diving and when I thought about it, I realised I could do my PADI. So I did it. And I loved it.


Had a superb instructor called Victor, who was a Catalan and therefore trilingual. Saw some great coral, some beautiful fish and learnt how to move around safely underwater with a tank of air. Thanks to Octopus Diving who I would heartily recommend.


The hills framed the beach beautifully and the fishing fleet gave the place a real proper fishing village atmosphere. Had superbly tasty choclo three times (maize mash) from a street vendor for 50p each, two being a solid meal.


As you can see below, the beach did resemble Bournemouth when the temperature hits 30 on a bank holiday, but it didn't bother me in the slightest. Let the people enjoy the beach is what I say :)


The view of the hills walking up the road to the hostel I ended up staying at. For the first time in any place I was caught in the holiday rush and actually had to move out of a hostel beause they had no more room when I came to pay for the next night!


Having successfully completed my PADI, I set off for Cartagena via Baranquilla (see below) which is where Shakira is from. The road was quite straightforward after some of the mountainous odysseys I´ve had but when we got to Cartagena we found the hostel booking we'd made online hadn't worked....


But, we managed to go to another hostel after phoning them. But when we arrived, .... they said they were full. Great! So we ended up walking around with backpacks for a while until finding a cheap hotel. The benefit of having a friend along being that hotel becomes almost the same price as hostel. After a good meal out, we set off into Cartagena's UNESCO heritage centre.


And it really was pretty. And hot. Even hotter than Taganga. So a couple of days of looking around followed, plus a visit to the DAS for a visa extension.


The ramparts of the port reminded me a lot of St Malo, which is where we went with the kids on the exchange several times. Reminded me of home, and work, and despite looking back on lots of good times, I certainly couldn't say I regretted the decision to come away.


The main square....


And the modern art museum just round the corner with some cool sculptures out front.


Having done quite a lot of touristy stuff, I really just wanted to get away from that and do some studying. Which I did in Montería which doesn´t feature on any of the tourist maps but was recommended to me by the guy in the hostel in Cartagena as being nice enough. Got the taxi driver to drive me round a few hotels before settling on one which was decent enough.


I then set about looking around. Feeling a bit uncertain as I was on my own after being with people but it was fine. The boardwalk by the river through the centre of town was quite lovely and devoid of tourists. So I had ice cream and studied. And walked around. And studied. And walked around. And studied. Was nice. Oh, and dodged iguanas. Who also like ice cream.



Look. Evidence of study. Honest. And the boardwalk. With kiddies stuff and all. Saw some impressive street dancing of which I have video.


The local tourists couldn't resist feeding the monkeys. Which I wish they didn't but it did make for a good pic.


After failing to get my laptop fixed I thought I'd set off for Medellin and the Buddha Hostel.