Found a pool in a hotel but it was too small. Bimbled about town, including lying on the floor looking up at one of the biggest flags I've ever seen. For those who saw my facebook update you'll recognise the end to the evening which was dancing up the street with some rather cliquey but fun musiciany, dready types. All without drinking!! Continuing in the healthy theme the next day, I went for a run as the proper swimming pool, which we finally found, was closed.
Also saw a film about the original Zapatista movement in Morelos, which was part of the 'to-ings and frowings' of the 1910 revolution. Amazing as the 90-100-year-old chuffers they interviewed were the real heroes of the revolution but were mouldering away in poverty and neglect, despite the fact they might have felt entitled to a handsome pension or something. But no. Just as Zapata himself was betrayed and murdered by the government, although some vets thought he had only recently died in Saudi Arabia of all places, so were they let down. It seems as though Zapata might have actually sacrificed himself, hoping his death would allow the peasants to achieve their goals anyway. But it didn't. NAFTA is utterly rejected by those support Zapata's policies of giving the land to those who work it, as it allows land to be bought, often by illegitemate means such as burning people's houses down if they refuse to sell.
The next morning at the museum of Maya Medicine was very interesting and underlined again that there is so much more to Mexican indigenous cultures than is generally known about. I also braved my first Latin American haircut. Next, the swimming pool saga came to a bitter end as I found out that it was for members only. Incredibly annoying.
I also managed to withdraw money twice without getting any money from HSBC. Had intended to pay for the work programme in the Chiapas hills doing construction in a Zapatista community. The organisation, recommended by my friend Sasha who runs the Russian summer camps in Cheboxary, is called Natate. Had to wait until the next day. And also sweat on working out if I'd been done over. Which I had. A bit frustrating but hopefully the bank will give me the money back.
So I went for a run again. Danced till v late at Pura Vida, a great nightclub which had a cracking drum & bass night on. I was one of the few going nuts, but didn't let it bother me. The incredibly windy road to Palenque the next day was not the ideal time to have a hangover, and nor was it perfect to arrive late, with no hostel booked. Walked around for a bit, which isn't too bad as my stuff went into hand luggage on the plane but still wasn't too easy in the decidedly hotter, sticky climes of Palenque. The town was pretty dud so after a quick squiz on the internet I took a chance and got a taxi to a place which seemed to be good. Turned out to be brilliant. The restaurant was really cool with a great relaxed jungle vibe.
Pan chan was not open but a guy at the restaurant, Don Pedro's, took pity and gave me a cabin at the Jaguar (pron Hag - WAR :). Headed off to the ruins the next day. Amazing. Started off with smaller stuff that was still covered in jungle.
Then worked through the site to the bigger ones. Some of which have been heavily restored.
And had a walk inside the main palace, which really reminded me of being at Angkor Wat, Cambodia.
The main temple is amazing but everyone always uses it for pics so I've put in a pic of a smaller temple taken from one of the highest points in the ruins.
There are also various waterfalls which are pretty, but when I did the jungle tour of the ruins not open to the public, I saw some which were so beautiful I could hardly believe it. Didn't take my camera for the unofficial tour though.
The main thing about the unoffical tour is that you are in the proper jungle with no paths. Utterly incredible. And after wowing about the waterfalls and the nature so much, I'd forgotten there would be temples too, until my guide said, 'oh, you're standing on a 1500-year-old temple by the way!!'
But that was a day or two later. In between times, it was my birthday so I went on a tour to Agua Azul, taking in another waterfall on the way.
That's me doing the rope swing! For the Spanish speakers who were wondering why it wasn't called agua marron, the colour of the water is affected by rain and it had thrashed it down the day before, washing away my brilliant jungle fridge (a plastic bag in the river). I also meditated in front this and the other waterfall, one of my favourite type of places to meditate. I had also managed a sit on the roof in San Cristobal after 2 clean days, my first sit since Lo de Marcos. back in mid September. Felt good to be back.
After seven wonderfully relaxing days in the jungle, waking up to howler monkeys and having lush green vegetation all around, fire jugglers performing at San Pancho´s and hanging out with them and the Mexican tour guides, it was time to go back to San Cris for the work programme.
On which note, I will leave you begging for more :)
Lots of love,
Steve
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